Fabio Capello pins faith on a tailor-made army
31/03/09 08:54 englandCharlie Allen
"Mr Allen, an Arsenal fan, chuckled at some of my sizes. “Rather smaller than the players, eh?” And that was before he got to my inside leg."
They may not yet be able to match the silky skills of the Brazilians, but England’s footballers can now hold their heads high as the best-dressed team in the world.
For the first time since England’s inaugural game in 1872, every member of the squad has had his kit made specifically for him by a bespoke tailor.
Amid much secrecy, Umbro’s designers have been working on a new home kit with Fabio Capello, the England manager, his players, the Football Association and Charlie Allen, a third-generation tailor who studied menswear at the Royal College of Art.
England gave the new look its first public airing at Wembley on Saturday when they beat Slovakia 4-0.
Parents and hard-pressed supporters may be aghast at the cost of replica shirts which, at £50, are 25 per cent more than the previous, typically short-lived, England kit.
The real thing looks pretty stylish, though. And, as The Times can testify, it feels good too. On the day before the match I became the first person not in the squad to be fitted for the “most sophisticated football kit ever”.
Such was the secrecy surrounding the kit that the first step was to sign a confidentiality agreement. Next, I was directed to a freezing building in East London to be measured for the kit by Mr Allen. It was like being measured for a suit, apart from the extra measurements of bottom, elbow, hip, thigh, bicep — all important to a footballer — as well as the length from the knee from the hip. Every England player’s shorts will stop 3in from the knee — apart from Joe Cole’s. He likes his shorter. And tighter, allegedly.
Mr Allen, an Arsenal fan, chuckled at some of my sizes. “Rather smaller than the players, eh?” And that was before he got to my inside leg.
Once on, it felt snug rather than tight. The fabric of the shirt, which has a collar that cannot be turned up à la Eric Cantona, takes moisture away from the skin. Holes under the arms and lower back create an airflow around the body.
Mr Allen explained that he had included shoulder darts to improve body fit, put a double stitch in the side seam and removed the shoulder seam to cause less friction. Its designers claim that contact between the fabric and skin will “stimulate the nerve endings, heightening alertness”.
Instead of small, medium and large sizes, customers will be able to choose specific chest sizes for shirts and waist measurements for shorts. For women, they will be made in dress sizes.
The shirt is 10mg lighter than before. The players can choose either long or short sleeves; on Saturday, four, including David Beckham, opted for long sleeves.
New details include the Three Lions emblem; each lion now has an individual look. Rio Ferdinand, who knows a thing or two about clothes, said: “They had a few of us together in the early stages of designing, talking about what would be good for us, and it’s gone really well.
“It’s nice and comfortable and looks nice. On me.”
His captain, John Terry, added: “Usually you would get large or extra large shirts to choose from and just have to get on with it. It’s good that players can now have their input.”
Mr Capello has also been under the gaze of Mr Allen, and has had his coat tailor-made.
It seems that the Italian influence is spreading to more than just the football.
Cost of kitting-up
Adults Shirt £50 (short sleeve), £54.99 (long sleeve) Shorts £24.99 Socks £9.99
Children Shirt £44.99 Shorts £19.99 Socks £7.99
Available to buy from April 1
Read more at the The Times Online
For the first time since England’s inaugural game in 1872, every member of the squad has had his kit made specifically for him by a bespoke tailor.
Amid much secrecy, Umbro’s designers have been working on a new home kit with Fabio Capello, the England manager, his players, the Football Association and Charlie Allen, a third-generation tailor who studied menswear at the Royal College of Art.
England gave the new look its first public airing at Wembley on Saturday when they beat Slovakia 4-0.
Parents and hard-pressed supporters may be aghast at the cost of replica shirts which, at £50, are 25 per cent more than the previous, typically short-lived, England kit.
The real thing looks pretty stylish, though. And, as The Times can testify, it feels good too. On the day before the match I became the first person not in the squad to be fitted for the “most sophisticated football kit ever”.
Such was the secrecy surrounding the kit that the first step was to sign a confidentiality agreement. Next, I was directed to a freezing building in East London to be measured for the kit by Mr Allen. It was like being measured for a suit, apart from the extra measurements of bottom, elbow, hip, thigh, bicep — all important to a footballer — as well as the length from the knee from the hip. Every England player’s shorts will stop 3in from the knee — apart from Joe Cole’s. He likes his shorter. And tighter, allegedly.
Mr Allen, an Arsenal fan, chuckled at some of my sizes. “Rather smaller than the players, eh?” And that was before he got to my inside leg.
Once on, it felt snug rather than tight. The fabric of the shirt, which has a collar that cannot be turned up à la Eric Cantona, takes moisture away from the skin. Holes under the arms and lower back create an airflow around the body.
Mr Allen explained that he had included shoulder darts to improve body fit, put a double stitch in the side seam and removed the shoulder seam to cause less friction. Its designers claim that contact between the fabric and skin will “stimulate the nerve endings, heightening alertness”.
Instead of small, medium and large sizes, customers will be able to choose specific chest sizes for shirts and waist measurements for shorts. For women, they will be made in dress sizes.
The shirt is 10mg lighter than before. The players can choose either long or short sleeves; on Saturday, four, including David Beckham, opted for long sleeves.
New details include the Three Lions emblem; each lion now has an individual look. Rio Ferdinand, who knows a thing or two about clothes, said: “They had a few of us together in the early stages of designing, talking about what would be good for us, and it’s gone really well.
“It’s nice and comfortable and looks nice. On me.”
His captain, John Terry, added: “Usually you would get large or extra large shirts to choose from and just have to get on with it. It’s good that players can now have their input.”
Mr Capello has also been under the gaze of Mr Allen, and has had his coat tailor-made.
It seems that the Italian influence is spreading to more than just the football.
Cost of kitting-up
Adults Shirt £50 (short sleeve), £54.99 (long sleeve) Shorts £24.99 Socks £9.99
Children Shirt £44.99 Shorts £19.99 Socks £7.99
Available to buy from April 1
Read more at the The Times Online