Financial Times: The Softly Softly Approach........
"British customers, particularly, are so used to feeling the weight of traditional tailoring, and feeling the jacket hold them in place, that they assume a much lighter jacket won't look right," says tailor Charlie Allen, who will be launching jackets "constructed more like shirts" with less interlining and taped seams this season. "Because customers really don't understand the garment, it's a slow process getting them to move on."
The softly softly approach
By Josh Sims
Published: October 13 2007 03:00 | Last updated: October 13 2007 03:00
There is this idea that women suffer for fashion, but unconsciously men do too," says Carlo Brandelli, creative director of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. "I wanted to wear a jacket all day at work but the usual heavy, stiff and fully-lined kind just isn't comfortable."
Enter Kilgour Unstructured, an evolution of the tailor's "half-line" system. Introduced in 2004, the style retains the structural qualities of Savile Row patterns, but partly exposes the working innards - the real craftsmanship of tailoring - more usually hidden under a lining.
Three years of experimental cutting later and a new pattern, with its heritage firmly in traditional English tailoring, has emerged. The difference is that the proportions are altered, the extra panels of fabric are carefully positioned and the lining, canvas and shoulder pieces are removed.....
Full article...
Also here on the style forum
By Josh Sims
Published: October 13 2007 03:00 | Last updated: October 13 2007 03:00
There is this idea that women suffer for fashion, but unconsciously men do too," says Carlo Brandelli, creative director of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. "I wanted to wear a jacket all day at work but the usual heavy, stiff and fully-lined kind just isn't comfortable."
Enter Kilgour Unstructured, an evolution of the tailor's "half-line" system. Introduced in 2004, the style retains the structural qualities of Savile Row patterns, but partly exposes the working innards - the real craftsmanship of tailoring - more usually hidden under a lining.
Three years of experimental cutting later and a new pattern, with its heritage firmly in traditional English tailoring, has emerged. The difference is that the proportions are altered, the extra panels of fabric are carefully positioned and the lining, canvas and shoulder pieces are removed.....
Full article...
Also here on the style forum